Neil Barrett presents a minimal take on the contemporary urban male for Spring/Summer 2015

Jackets find themselves the focus of the Spring Summer 2015 collection from designer Neil Barrett. Harringtons, blousons, Chesterfields, boxy collarless bombers, fabric bikers, single-breasted dinner jackets and voluminous overcoats all showcase Barrett’s mastery at delivering impeccable fit and structure with high-tech lightweight materials.

That is not to say Barrett skimped on the details, which are predominantly active. Loose-legged, knee-length shorts and varsity jackets teamed with casual sweatshirts enjoy a sporty edge, playing off of fitted sweatpants and tops which are finished with wide, elasticated edges. Zips create collar and hood embellishments as well as side vents on elongated T-shirt tunics, crew-neck sweaters and tapered trousers. Layering a traditional dinner jacket with contrast lapels over a tunic tee and under an asymmetrically fastened overcoat is a truly directional touch of note that will undoubtedly be replicated by the fashion-forward on streets across the world.

True to form, Barrett’s leather, pearlescent PVC, satin, and velour suede-like finishes give the collection a glossy and luxurious feel, especially when combined with digitally resurfaced and blurred graphics of photo-realistic alabaster busts used selectively to maximum effect. Barrett also incorporates two different types of reinvented camouflage into his designs. One print was created by shattering photo bust images into pieces, grouping and rotating them to form a fluid camo-like flow. The other was more abstract with large, widely spaced blobs and waves blocked out to form camo-esque shapes.

Aubergine, viridian and inky blues provide a subdued contrast against the largely black, white, camel and grey palette; the only bright pop of color being a rich, custard yellow.

Thick-soled, center-seam boots, high-tops and sneakers mirror the apparel’s monochromatic tones while gold and black appliqués give a subtle flash of sheen.

Models are styled simply, clean-faced with wayfarer sunglasses and small leather backpacks, often wearing a single color from head to toe.