A Return to Form? Maison Martin Margiela Paris Mens Spring/Summer 2015

The enigmatic Maison Martin Margiela delivers a surprisingly practical and casual series of looks for Spring/Summer 2015. Keeping to its tradition of deconstructed minimalist couture, the label introduces an assortment of monotone pieces accentuated with the occasional touch of beige or mouse grey. The models glide across the runway in colorless duck-toed shoes, billowing off-white trench coats marked by imposing lapels, as well as lightweight coats reminiscent of the standard labcoat uniforms famously worn by the Margiela staff themselves.

However, with the appearance of the last extremely minimalist Chelsea boot, we are left wondering whatever happened to Margiela’s other tradition—that of uncompromising conceptualism, of creating garments our mothers would be ashamed to see us in. Where is the Margiela that covered Kanye’s head in jewel-encrusted see-through masks?

These questions are quickly laid to rest with the arrival of a fascinating series of pants that combine a slim, suit-pant leg with either a wool sweatpant-style leg or a denim jean pantleg, creating a riveting contrast between formal and casual within a single piece. Fresh takes on voguish items like varsity and bomber jackets alternate between more experimental rave-scene mesh shirts, until we are hit with a refreshing burst of colors in shimmering emerald and cerulean single-buttoned suits. But what is perhaps most striking is the skintight, transparent nude tops embroidered with bold sequin illustrations, forming the illusion of a body tattoo that can be donned or discarded at the wearer’s whim.

Recent rumors suggest that there is a new London designer at the helm of the French boutique’s menswear operation, and if the crazy-cum-simplistic styling of the Spring/Summer 2015 collection is any indication, that new designer will bring Maison Martin Margiela back to its roots.